Chasing swell is a game of chance, even though you watch every swell map and weather forcast available you never truely know what the waves will be doing until you wake the morning of.

When we decide to make the journey from Hawaii to Cali to surf mavericks,  I really had no expectation of huge waves,  I was hoping for  18 to 20 foot waves to warm into.  Little did we all know that maves was going to give us the show of our lives. The waves  started out in the 15 to 18 foot range and just kept building, by afternoon the largest  set were maxing in the 30 foot range.  I started out loving the day but quickly found myself well out my league and with the best big wave surfers in the world struggling to catch waves I realized that this day the ocean totally owned me. The take off zone was  as big as a football field, with sets catching people out all the time.

I guess now I know how big that place can get, I truly think these big wave surfers are incredible water men,  Maves is probably the ultimate paddle wave around and to see the likes of Shane Dorian, Twiggy Baker and the boys charging the biggest 2 day ever was incredible.

Here are a few pics from the session, including shaun dollar’s monster which might be the biggest wave ever paddled.

Maves Contest,

Last week I was lucky enough to witness Chris Bertish take out the maves contest in what most are calling the biggest surf ever in competition. The event was the biggest eye opener of my life just watching from the channel everyone was going hard paddling into the waves of their lives. Surfing definately reached new hights that day. Here are a couple of images from the contest, check out the video link on surfline below……..

It was so good seeing Chris win, the guy surfs so well and is one of the best underground big wave surfers around. Chris arrived into San Fran at 1 in the morning the night before the contest from a 36 hour travels from South Africa, surfed all day partied all night and then flew home the next day for a work meeting at home. Talk about taking it out in style.

video link: http://www.surfline.com/video/contests/mavericks-surf-contest-highlights_41179

The surfs been up and down in Hawaii the last couple of weeks with only a few small days at the bay.  Pretty much every session you guaranteed a good beat down.

Here is one of mine from a recent day.

I landed in Hawaii late last night (1st of Jan) cant wait to see what this season brings.  Good wave, tropical weather, sunshine, 2010 feels good already

After 6 weeks solid of pissing down rain and gale force winds we finally scored some waves in Jersey.  A long distance ground swell with light onshore winds produce 4 days of good waves! The first day was amazing a few friends and I surfed an outer reef that never breaks.  The following days were fun 3 to4 foot beaches, the best waves I have had in months.

Perfect!