Chasing swell is a game of chance, even though you watch every swell map and weather forcast available you never truely know what the waves will be doing until you wake the morning of.
When we decide to make the journey from Hawaii to Cali to surf mavericks, I really had no expectation of huge waves, I was hoping for 18 to 20 foot waves to warm into. Little did we all know that maves was going to give us the show of our lives. The waves started out in the 15 to 18 foot range and just kept building, by afternoon the largest set were maxing in the 30 foot range. I started out loving the day but quickly found myself well out my league and with the best big wave surfers in the world struggling to catch waves I realized that this day the ocean totally owned me. The take off zone was as big as a football field, with sets catching people out all the time.
I guess now I know how big that place can get, I truly think these big wave surfers are incredible water men, Maves is probably the ultimate paddle wave around and to see the likes of Shane Dorian, Twiggy Baker and the boys charging the biggest 2 day ever was incredible.
Here are a few pics from the session, including shaun dollar’s monster which might be the biggest wave ever paddled.
- san fran
- shaun dollar’s bomb!
- The Crew
- my first wave at maves
- The bullet hole ridden surf bus!!
- The girls at the Maves truck
- San Fran from the sky!
- A bar in the Gay districted of San Fran, classic name!







