Here’s a shot my friend Gregg Miller took of my wave at Waimea. I think it’s my favourite shot from the session.
I can’t wait to see it like this again!
After a long day at Waimea I paddled into what turned out to be my last real wave of the Hawaiian winter. Half way down I caught my inside rail and fell in the direct path of the lip. Maybe I didn’t paddle hard enough or went to late, I’m not sure, I’m still trying to piece it all together, either way the damage is done. The lip landed square across my back and hit me so hard I nearly passed out. I remember keeping my eyes open, telling myself to say conscious. I have never been smashed so hard in my life!
It turns out I have twisted my spine and fractured my T3. I’m really fortunate that its not worse. It’s made me realise that a thin impact vest could be a good investment in waves over 15 foot……
Anyway here are a few shots of the wave.
After 2 waveless months at home I was really pleased to watch the storm of the winter forming in the Pacific. A few phone calls later my flights were booked, bags packed and the first feelings of excitement started rushing through my vain’s.
I arrived in Hawaii the day before the swell. As you could imagine there was endless hype surrounding the possible running of the Eddie. The surf was predicted to be in the 20 to 25 foot range, but as dawn approached it was clear the swell just wasn’t Eddie worthy. Although a few solid waves came through it wasn’t consistent enough.
The Waimea Crowd was ridiculous, with every surfer on the North Shore out to show their worth. This made catching a wave to yourself very challenging.
My best wave came in just before sunset as the swell gave its last pulse. It was by far the biggest wave I have paddled into this season and made my trip. I’m Pretty sure its being run in Surf Europe so I won’t be blogging it or any of my better waves.I have attached a few shots which I feel sum up the day, including lucky number 10. You’ll know what I mean when you see it.
Here is a little video from the day:
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